Main Article Content

Khaya Mchunu University of Johannesburg image/svg+xml

Isaiah Negedu University of Johannesburg image/svg+xml

Abstract

There is a growing number of African fashion designers who use their work to contribute to queer artistic production. This article examines how non-gendered forms are viewed concerning fashion styles in sub-Saharan Africa. In doing this, the article considers the narratives in gendered items of clothing. Focusing on the Lagos Space Programme this article incorporates visual and textual analyses of the fashion pieces available on the brand’s official Instagram page. The article examines the imagery, fashion films, and design statements for different collections as well as the brand’s manifestos and interviews with its creative director, Adeju Thompson. This article demonstrates how the projects of this brand are invested in reconstructing, queering, and pluralising African masculinities. This article ultimately highlights how fashion can be a site for contesting the presentation of queer identities and challenging the binary ways of thinking about gender identities.

References

Adomaitis, A., Saiki, D., Johnson, K., Sahanoor, R., and Antique, A. (2024). Relationships between dress and gender identity: LGBTQIA+. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 42(1), pp. 3-18. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X211059103

African LGBTI manifesto/declaration, Nairobi, Kenya. (2013). In: Ekine, S. And Abbas H. Dakar, eds. Queer African Reader. Pambazuka Press, pp. 52–53.

AkhaviZadegan, R. (2024). Beyond men and masculinity: exploring the detrimental effects of masculinity and envisioning a new paradigm. Journal of International Women’s Studies, 26(1), Article 20.

Andrew, E. H. (2014). Configurations of the African masks: forms, functions, and the transcendental. Cross-Cultural Communication, 10(4), pp.211-216.

Barnard, M. (2002). Fashion as communication. London and New York: Routledge.

Benissan, E. (2023). After Woolmark win, Lagos Space Programme readies for growth, Vogue Business [online], 24 May. Available from: https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/after- woolmark-win-lagos-space-programme-readies-for-growth [accessed 05/07/2024].

Bentor, E. (2002). Spatial continuities: masks and cultural interactions between the Delta and Southeastern Nigeria. African Arts, 35(1), pp.26-41. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1162/afar.2002.35.1.26

Bowstead, J. M. (2018). Menswear revolution: the transformation of contemporary men’s fashion. London: Bloomsbury. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474289030

Brajato, N. (2020). Queer(ing) tailoring: Walter van Beirendonck and the glorious bastardisation of the suit. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 11(1), pp.45-72. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00009_1

Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble: feminism and the subversion of identity.

New York: Routledge.

Butler, J. (2004). Undoing gender. New York: Routledge. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203499627

Cabrera, D. and Cabrera, L. (2015). Systems thinking made simple: new hope for solving wicked problems. New York: Plectica Publishing.

Cameron, E. L. (1998). Men portraying women: representations in African masks. African Arts, 31(2), pp.72-79. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/3337523

Carrigan, T., Connell, B. and Lee, J. (1985). Toward a new sociology of masculinity. Theory and Society, 14(5), pp.551-604. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00160017

Chigbu, U. E. (2019). Masculinity, men and patriarchal issues aside: how do women’s actions impede women’s access to land? matters arising from a peri-rural community in Nigeria. Land Use Policy, 81, pp.39-48. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.landusepol.2018.10.033

Chimakonam, J. O. (2019). Ezumezu: a system of logic for African philosophy and studies. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-11075-8

Dlepu, T. N. (2015). Fashion and style as a form of social and cultural expression in South Africa. Munich: GRIN Verlag.

Drewal, H. J. and Drewal, M. T. (1990). Gẹlẹdẹ: art and female power among the Yoruba. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

Ekine, S. and Abbas, H., eds. (2013). Queer African reader. Dakar: Pambazuka Press.

Ekine, S. and Abbas, H. (2013). Introduction. In: Ekine, S. and Abbas, H., eds. Queer African Reader. Dakar: Pambazuka Press,

pp. 1-5.

Ekine, S. (2013). Contesting Narratives of Queer Africa. In: Ekine, S. and Abbas, H., eds. Queer African reader. Dakar: Pambazuka Press, pp.78-91.

Fan, S. (2023). A kernel inquiry into genderless fashion: the social concepts it conveys. Proceedings of the International Conference on Global Politics and Socio-Humanities, DOI: https://doi.org/10.54254/2753-7064/15/20230563

pp. 67-72.

Fidolini, V. (2024). Coping with gender norms. constructions of masculinity between autonomy and dependence. Italian Sociological Review, 14(1), pp.115-135.

Jana, R., Thompson, A., O’Dwyer, S. and Kindersley, P. (2023).

Three designers on resisting fashion’s conventions: Sinéad O’Dwyer, Adeju Thompson and Paul Kindersley discuss how their respective practices defy the mainstream. Frieze Magazine [online], 30 August. Available from: https://www.frieze.com/ article/fashion-roundtable-237 [05/10/2023].

Gevisser, M. and Cameron, E. eds. (1994). Defiant desires: gay and lesbian lives in South Africa. Cape Town: Ravan Press.

Hopkins, J. (2021). Lagos Space Programme. Industrie Africa Connect [online]. Available from: https://connect.industrieafrica.com/ designers/lagos-space-programme [05/10/2023].

Kaiser, S. B. and Green, D. N. (2022). Fashion and cultural studies. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350104716

London: Bloomsbury Publishing.

Lawal, B. (1996). The Gẹ̀lẹ̀dẹ́ spectacle: art, gender, and social harmony in an African culture. Seattle and London: University of Washington Press.

Lemelle, A. (2010). Black masculinity and sexual politics. New York: Routledge. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203864227

Livermon, X. (2012). Queer(y)ing freedom: black queer visibilities in postapartheid South Africa. GLQ: A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, 18(2-3), pp.297-323. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/10642684-1472908

Loureiro, E. (2022). Has genderless become a fashion design label? DOI: https://doi.org/10.53681/c1514225187514391s.30.146

Convergências, 15(30), pp.99-110.

Matebeni, Z. (2014). Reclaiming Afrikan: queer perspectives on sexual and gender identities. Johannesburg: Modjadji Books.

Mchunu, K. (2023). The queer activism of Simon Nkoli’s clothed and styled body. Gender Questions, 11(1), pp.1-23. DOI: https://doi.org/10.25159/2412-8457/11822

Miller, K. (2001). Cross-Dressing at the crossroads: mimic and ambivalence in Yoruba masked performance. In: Fillin-Yeh, S., ed. Dandies: fashion and finesse in art and culture. New York: New York University Press, pp.204-216. DOI: https://doi.org/10.18574/nyu/9780814729212.003.0012

Morrell, R. and Ouzgane, L. (2005). African masculinities: men in Africa from the late nineteenth century to present. London: Palgrave MacMillan. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9781403979605

Nuttall, S. (2009). Entanglement: literary and cultural reflections on post apartheid. Johannesburg: Wits University Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.18772/12009084761

Olawoye, JE., Omololu, FO., Aderinto, Y., Adeyefa, I., Adeyemo, D., Osotimehin, B. (2004). Social Construction of Manhood in Nigeria: Implications for Male Responsibility in Reproductive Health. African Population Studies, 19(2), pp.1-20.

Ossome, L. (2013). Postcolonial Discourses of Queer Activism and Class in Africa. In: Ekine, S. and Abbas, H., eds. Queer African Reader. Dakar: Pambazuka Press, pp.32-47.

Pereira, P. P. G. (2019). Queer in the tropics: gender and sexuality in the global south. Cham: Springer. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15074-7

Pinther, K. and Kastner, K. (2022). Introduction: fashioning the Afropolis – histories, materialities and aesthetics. In: Pinther, K., Kastner, K. and Ndjio, B., eds. Fashioning the Afropolis – histories, materialities and Aesthetics. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts,

pp.1-25.

Pinther, K., Kastner, K. and Ndjio, B., eds. (2022). Fashioning the Afropolis – histories, materialities and aesthetics. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350179554

Powell, A. H. (2017). (Un)Dressing the Black Male Body. QED: A Journal in GLBTQ Worldmaking, 4(3), pp.185-189. DOI: https://doi.org/10.14321/qed.4.3.0185

Ratele, K. (2008). Studying Men in Africa Critically. In: Uchendu, E., ed. Masculinities in Contemporary Africa. Dakar: Council for the Development of Social Science in Africa, pp.18–33.

Rothery, M. (2024). Lagos Space Programme, the Brand Uncovering Nigeria’s Queer Legacies. AnOther Magazine [online], 07 February. Available from: https://www.anothermag.com/ fashion-beauty/15409/lagos-space-programme-adeju- thompson-interview [05/10/2023].

Rothmann, J. (2022). Macho men in south african gyms: the idealisation of spornosexuality. Cham: Palgrave MacMillan. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-15440-9

Uchendu, E. (2007). Masculinity and Nigerian youths. Nordic Journal of African Studies, 16(2), pp.279-297.

Uchendu, E. (2008). Masculinities in contemporary Africa. Dakar: Council for the Development of Social Science in Africa.

UNFPA Ukraine. (2018). Masculinity Today: Men’s Attitude to Gender Stereotypes and Violence Against Women [online], 1 June. Available from: https://menengage.unfpa.org/en/ publications/masculinity-today-mens-attitudes-gender-

stereotypes-and-violence-against-women-1 [accessed date]. Willis, J. T. (2018). Masquerading politics: kinship, gender, and ethnicity in a

Yoruba town. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Article Details

Section
Peer Review

How to Cite

The Lagos Space Programme’s Re/construction and Queering of Masculinity. (2025). The Thinker, 102(1), 73-83. https://doi.org/10.36615/7ckpxq62